Equine Dental Floats
Floats for smoothing sharp enamel points and keeping equine teeth comfortable.
Equine Dental Floats
Floating is the work that fills most equine dental lists, and the float you reach for decides how quickly and how well it gets done. Velmourne's equine dental floats cover incisors through to the caudal molars, in straight, offset and upturned shafts — so the head meets the tooth at the angle the mouth allows, rather than the angle your wrist can force.
What Floating Corrects
Equine teeth erupt continuously and wear unevenly. Left alone, that produces sharp enamel points on the buccal edge of the uppers and the lingual edge of the lowers, hooks at the front and back of the arcade, and ramps that stop the jaw moving freely. The horse feels it before you see it — quidding, head-tossing, resistance to the bit, dropping condition.
Floating restores the occlusal surface so the arcades meet and slide as they should. Doing it well means removing what needs to come off and no more, which is a question of control — and control comes from the instrument.
Two Ranges, One Difference
The floats are offered as two ranges, SH and PH. The working heads cover the same regions of the mouth — incisor, premolar, molar, lingual, upturned, offset. The difference between them is the handle.
That matters more than it sounds. Floating is repetitive work under load, often at full reach, and the handle is where fatigue starts. Practitioners tend to try both and then stay with one. If you are buying more than one float, buy from the same range so the feel stays consistent across your set.
SH Range
- Small Incisor Float (SH0) — the smallest head in the range, for fine incisor adjustment without over-reduction.
- Premolar and Molar Float (SH1) — 13° angled head covering both premolars and molars. The general-purpose float of the range.
- Premolar Float (SH2) — 15° angled head, aimed at the premolar arcade.
- Offset Shaft Float (SH3) — offset shaft for access to areas a straight shaft cannot reach comfortably.
- Straight Shaft Lingual Float (SH4) — for the lingual surfaces of the lower arcade, where sharp points cause tongue trauma.
- Straight Shaft Float (SH5) — general filing and smoothing with straightforward reach and control.
PH Range
The same working heads on the alternative handle.
- Straight Shaft Float (PH1) — straight shaft for general work across the arcade.
- Straight Shaft Float (PH2) — the second straight-shaft option, differing in head angle.
- Upturned Back Molar Float (PH4) — the upturned head reaches the last molars, which are the hardest to work and the most often left undone.
- Premolar Float (PH5) — dedicated premolar float within the PH range.
- Offset Shaft Float (PH6) — offset shaft with an 18 cm grip included in the overall length, for maneuverability across longer procedures.
Protecting the Blades
A float is only as good as its cutting surface, and most blades are damaged in the bucket rather than in the mouth — knocked against steel, or against each other.
- Stainless Steel Blade Savers — for stainless buckets, keeping the cutting surface clear of the bucket wall.
- PVC Plastic Bucket Blade Savers — the plastic equivalent, for plastic buckets.
Storage
- Roll-Up Wallet for Equine Floats — holds a set of floats separated and secured. Worth having for ambulatory work, where loose floats in a vehicle blunt each other between yards.
Building a Set
A working set usually starts with three: a premolar and molar float for general work, an upturned float for the back molars, and a lingual float for the lower arcade. Incisor floats and offset shafts are added as the caseload demands. Blade savers and a wallet cost a fraction of replacing blunted floats, and are worth buying at the same time rather than later.
Please note: blades are not supplied. Blades are sourced separately and are not included with any float or set.
Every float carrying the Velmourne name is stainless steel and is checked before dispatch. There is no minimum order — buy one float or fit out a practice.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are blades included?
No. We do not supply blades. Every float and float set is supplied without blades — you will need to source these separately.
What does floating a horse's teeth mean?
Filing the occlusal surfaces to remove sharp enamel points, hooks and ramps, so the arcades meet evenly and the jaw moves freely.
What is the difference between the SH and PH ranges?
The handle. The working heads cover the same regions of the mouth, so the choice comes down to which handle suits your grip and your working style. If you already own floats from one range, stay with it — a consistent feel across a set is worth more than mixing.
Which float should I buy first?
A premolar and molar float. It handles the majority of routine work; everything else is added for specific regions.
Why do I need an upturned float?
The last molars sit far back and at an awkward angle. An upturned head reaches them without forcing your wrist into a position where you lose control of the stroke.
What is a lingual float for?
The inner surfaces of the lower arcade, where sharp points cause tongue trauma. A straight float cannot address them properly.
When is an offset shaft better than a straight one?
Where a straight shaft would put your hand in the way of your own stroke. The offset keeps your hand clear and reduces strain over a long list.
How do I stop blades blunting?
Most damage happens outside the mouth. Blade savers stop the cutting surface knocking against the bucket, and a wallet keeps floats from knocking against each other in transit.
Are these suitable for someone starting out?
They are professional instruments for qualified veterinary surgeons and trained equine dental technicians. Over-reduction is difficult to undo, so floating is a trained skill.